Jared's Hydrogen Generator Builder's Guide

Step #6-8

2008-10-26T15:16:00.000-07:00

Step 6: Trim the lids

In this step we'll cut away any extra Goop that may get in the way of the electric post installation. A utility knife and some needle nosed pliers should make this easy. Be careful not to cut through the lids or crack them.

Step 7: Cut, Strip and Curl

Cut two 34" lengths of 14 gauge copper wire for each jar. The wire length will vary depending on the size of your jars and fiberglass. Then strip each piece so that the copper is completely exposed.

To finish preparing your wire for installation, curl the tip of one end of each wire so that a 1/4" Screw fits through snugly.

Step 8: Finishing the Jars

Now... (Under Construction)

Pt.1

Click Here for a larger version of this video.

Pt.2

Click Here for a larger version of this video.

Here are the completed generators.

After Step #5

2008-10-25T13:51:00.000-07:00

Here's what Phil's generators look like so far.

In the next steps you'll have to create the electrical posts. This is a side view of how each post is constructed.

The jars should be airtight after the posts are installed. Wait till the glue dries then, with the lid screwed on, cover one valve and blow into the other one. You'll have to ad more goop around the electric posts and valves if you hear air hissing out of the jar.

Step #3-5 Lids, Posts, and Goop!

2008-10-16T17:31:00.000-07:00

Step 3: Making The Lids

You'll need a plastic wide-mouthed mason jar lid for each generator. Phil will be making three.

The first step of preparing your lids is to remove the plastic nipple and any outset lettering from the under side of each lid. Later, the posts will form a better bond with the lid surface if it's flat.

This can be done using sand paper, a utility knife, or many other tools. Phil used a Cordless Dremel with a sanding bit. Be careful with these lids. Some may crack easier than others.

Now you'll need to drill the holes in the lid where the nylon valves and electric posts will pass through. To do this you'll need a marker and a drill with a 1/4" Bit, a 5/16" Bit as well as a 15/32" Bit. Take your time drilling these holes. It may help to drill holes with a smaller bit at first. Phil and I found that the large 15/32" Bit tends to crack the plastic. Phil used the Dremel once again to finish rounding out the cracked holes. Luckily, none of them broke.

The holes don't need to be perfectly placed, but they do need to be spaced fairly evenly and each should be about an inch out from the center of the lid. This will keep your holes from interfering with the plexiglass "posts" that will crisscross on the under side of the lid.

You can click on the templates below to download a printable version.

Once you've finished the holes it's time to prep the lids for glue. Peel off any burs and extra melted plastic. Then clean the lid with alcohol. Place your lids to the side and move on to the posts.

Step 4: Making the Plexiglass Posts

You'll need to acquire some 1/4" plexiglass. It doesn't have to be clear or in the best condition. You may be able to find some spare pieces for free.

This next step is probably the most difficult part of the project.

You could have your posts cut professionally, but the cheap way works for me. A Jigsaw with a very fine-toothed and straight blade does the trick.

Draw out each Post, one at a time, and then start by cutting out the space between the legs of each post. We'll call this the inseam. It's a lot easier to cut out the inseam while the post is still part of the larger piece of plexiglass.

As you cut, you may find that the melting plexiglass reseals behind your blade as you go. It's likely that each cut will need to be made twice.

Also, keep the jigsaw firmly connected with the plexiglass surface. Too light of a pressure will make it vibrate to the point where you're barely cutting at all. Inversely, too much pressure will certainly crack it.

Keep in mind that the post length depends upon the size of the jars you're using. Adapt these plans to suit your needs.

Make two posts for each generator. Phil is making six. Each piece will connect by sliding into the others' inseam. So, be sure that each inseam is wide enough and free of melted chunks.

Gently use a chisel and rubber mallet to take off any extra bits.

Now carefully drill a 1/4" hole in all four corners of each piece. This is where your wire will pass through and secure itself.

Once again, prepare to glue by cleaning off the plexiglass. Peel off any burs and extra melted plastic. Now you're ready to glue your generator together.

Step 5: Glue It Together

We chose to reinforce the holes, where the "valves" will pass through the lids, with flat washers. Phil "Gooped" them to the lids and then placed a bead of Goop around each valve to glue them into the holes.

After the valves are glued in, turn over the lid and glue around the underside of each valve. This will help insure that you have an air-tight seal. It will also reinforce the bond. Try to avoid getting glue inside the valves or on the threads where hose will be attached. Any extra Goop can be cut off later with a utility knife.

A spare piece of cardboard and some wire will help you manipulate the glue and avoid a sticky mess.

Loosely set the lids on top of the jars to cure. I put some weight on top of the valves to make sure they form a tight bond. Some Goop may drip to the bottom of your jars. It may be a good idea to place a piece of newspaper inside them.

Now you can prepare the plexiglass posts. Get plenty of Goop in the inseams of two pieces and connect them. Then run a thick bead of Goop down each joint. Place the post in a standing position and let it dry for a bit. This will give you a flat side to glue to the lid even if your posts didn't come out very evenly. Phil's were all unique, but they'll still work wonderfully.

The Goop will be partially cured in 2-10 minutes. Once the valves seem set, it's time to glue the finished posts to the lids. Wipe off any extra goop that may have dripped down to the flat side of each post set. Then apply a new thick bead of Goop along the "X" on the flat side of each. Finally attach them to the lids and place them upside-down on top of the jars to finish curing.

Let them sit for at least 24 hours. It's important that the bonds are fully cured and strong before you start attaching wires and hoses.

Because of the gluing, this project takes at least two days to complete. The next step will be to prepare the wiring and jar holster in your vehicle. Once the glue dries, we'll complete the assembly of each hydrogen generator and install them in Phil's Samurai.

Step #1-2: Meet Phil

2008-10-12T23:11:00.000-07:00

Meet my friend Phil...

Phil has volunteered to help me share the process of building a hydrogen generator with you. I will create a step by step guide to building a hydrogen generator that is hopefully easy to follow and definitely free for everyone. As my test subject, Phil will be following these plans to build his own hydrogen generator.

Phil's project vehicle is a 1986 Convertible Top Suzuki Samurai.

Step 1: Analyze your engine compartment. (Look under the hood!)
The first step to this project is analyzing your engine compartment. Is there enough room for a hydrogen generator? If yes, what size mason jars will you use and how many? Keep in mind that the mason jars you use must be wide mouthed. Read on for examples and to find hints to customizing your installation.

Phil Has more than enough room on the driver's side of his engine compartment. There's also a nice flat platform to support the installation.

Step 2: Analyze your current fuel economy. (How many miles do you get per gallon?)

There are two ways I would do this.

1. You could fill up your tank and write down your odometer reading or zero your trip odometer. Then drive as usual while noting how much of your diving is highway or city and what average speeds you drive at. At any given time, let's say after at least 20 miles, stop and fill up your tank. Now note the gallons purchased and find out how far you've traveled since you last fueled up. To do this subtract your previous noted odometer reading from your current reading at the pump or simply check your previously zeroed trip odometer. Now divide the miles traveled by the gallons purchased and you will have your current average fuel economy. 100 miles / 5 Gallons = 20 Miles Per Gallon.

Phil needs to get back to me on this part. Do your homework Phil!

2. Another option is to look up your vehicles fuel economy at fueleconomy.gov. These estimates will vary based on the condition of your vehicle and your driving habits. I recommend using the prior method for more accurate conclusions as to the effectiveness of your installation and to know exactly how substantial your bragging rights are.

According to fueleconomy.gov Phil's '86 Samurai gets 23 City and 27 Highway. The combined miles per gallon is around 25.

Now you are ready to start the building process.

"It definitely works!!!" (Old post from: electricmotorcyclediaries.com)

2008-08-19T12:48:00.000-07:00

The Hydrogen Generator was a great success!!!
To view my instructional blog check out hydrogenbyjared.com

The previous owner of the Jeep, Joan Garuti (my mom), claimed to get 21mpg driving 50mph with the top up. With the top down she claimed to get 24mpg at best. According to fueleconomy.gov this 1998 4-cylinder manual tranny Jeep Wrangler should be getting 16 city and 18 hwy miles per gallon. I guess the question is... who can drive 55? I could at the beginning of my trip, but after a few days I realized that I needed to be back to Oregon much faster.

My findings...

At best, the mileage I got was 26.78 MPG traveling at 55mph. A Jeep Wrangler getting almost 27 MPG... amazing! On average, at speeds between 55 and 75mph, I got about 25 MPG. Speed makes a huge difference in how much gas you use. I also noticed that as the wires corroded my MPGs went down. A good generator will have easily replaceable wires. I'm hoping after a few upgrades and skillful driving that I'll be able to make 28 MPG.

I installed the hydrogen generator in New Hampshire with help from my brother Joshua. His garage is full of project left overs and tools that I'd never seen before! What a great spot to get creative...

The cage that supports the jars is made from some french drain pipe left overs, cable ties (fluorescent colored of course), automotive brake lines and an old cd rack. It's easy to remove the jars for maintenance. The rack will detach easily as well. Fortunately the jeep has a nice spot to slip this hydrogen generator into, some other vehicles may not be so lucky. If you're hurting for space... take out your air conditioning system! Come now, do you really need it?

This is what it looks like installed. Later I added an off switch in the dash and an air pump. The problem with hooking up the power to your generator from an accessory power line is that it turns on when you park up at the look out and switch on the radio for some mood music. Draining your battery and filling your air intake with hydrogen es no bueno! A simple 20 amp switch did the trick. The air pump helps keep a steady flow of hydrogen into the intake. There wasn't enough of a vacuum for the engine to pull in the hydrogen on it's own.

The Bubbles! The bubbles are mine!

Gross! Look at all that corrosion and mineral depositization! This picture was taken in Illinois and the unit was still working great. It just looked like a dirty fish tank so I cleaned it out and added new water. John Colwell, who was a chemist back in the day, suggested I try distilled water with a small amount of salt instead of tap water. Once I build my new generator I'll switch over and hopefully the electrolysis process will be a little cleaner and more sustainable.

Thoughts for the future:

I'm going to start a second blog for this hydrogen project. It'll be an instructional blog that follows my progress building a new setup. I've got some great ideas for a few upgrades! Hopefully it will help anyone feel confident enough to build their own. It's cool to have better fuel economy!

Comment Responses:

It's not a bomb Jay! :-P

"Update & Hydrogen Generators" (Old post from: electricmotorcyclediaries.com)

2008-08-04T00:07:00.000-07:00

Currently, I'm still stuck waiting until I have enough cash to purchase the PMG-132 Perm Motor. It's the most expensive part and unfortunately, one of the first things I need to really get building.

I'll be taking a trip soon and driving a Jeep across the country. I know... horrible gas mileage. To help save some cash, give myself a project, and try something new... I decided to try building a supplemental Hydrogen Generator to increase my MPG. These babies are also suppose to decrease your emissions!

I'd been reading about them for a while, but I didn't feel convinced enough to try one until my friend Jay Armstrong sent me a link to this blog... IT WORKS! — TechCity

A local Ashlander built that one and is getting a 25% increase in gas mileage! It's time to try it for myself.

Search for plans on the internet. There are lots for sale, but if you look carefully you will find some free ones. The plans I used are detailed and straight forward, but I think there are some needless extra steps and components. I mostly stuck to the plans. ;)

Once I've installed it I will post my results.

Here's a video of the unit in action...

My housemate Carrie looks impressed...

That's it for now. I hope you're having a great summer! Don't worry, we'll have this motorcycle done by next year. My goal is to have it drivable by July 4th, 2009.