You'll need a plastic wide-mouthed mason jar lid for each generator. Phil will be making three.
The first step of preparing your lids is to remove the plastic nipple and any outset lettering from the under side of each lid. Later, the posts will form a better bond with the lid surface if it's flat.
This can be done using sand paper, a utility knife, or many other tools. Phil used a Cordless Dremel with a sanding bit. Be careful with these lids. Some may crack easier than others.
This can be done using sand paper, a utility knife, or many other tools. Phil used a Cordless Dremel with a sanding bit. Be careful with these lids. Some may crack easier than others.
Now you'll need to drill the holes in the lid where the nylon valves and electric posts will pass through. To do this you'll need a marker and a drill with a 1/4" Bit, a 5/16" Bit as well as a 15/32" Bit. Take your time drilling these holes. It may help to drill holes with a smaller bit at first. Phil and I found that the large 15/32" Bit tends to crack the plastic. Phil used the Dremel once again to finish rounding out the cracked holes. Luckily, none of them broke.
The holes don't need to be perfectly placed, but they do need to be spaced fairly evenly and each should be about an inch out from the center of the lid. This will keep your holes from interfering with the plexiglass "posts" that will crisscross on the under side of the lid.
You can click on the templates below to download a printable version.
Once you've finished the holes it's time to prep the lids for glue. Peel off any burs and extra melted plastic. Then clean the lid with alcohol. Place your lids to the side and move on to the posts.
Step 4: Making the Plexiglass Posts
You'll need to acquire some 1/4" plexiglass. It doesn't have to be clear or in the best condition. You may be able to find some spare pieces for free.
This next step is probably the most difficult part of the project.
This next step is probably the most difficult part of the project.
You could have your posts cut professionally, but the cheap way works for me. A Jigsaw with a very fine-toothed and straight blade does the trick.
Draw out each Post, one at a time, and then start by cutting out the space between the legs of each post. We'll call this the inseam. It's a lot easier to cut out the inseam while the post is still part of the larger piece of plexiglass.
As you cut, you may find that the melting plexiglass reseals behind your blade as you go. It's likely that each cut will need to be made twice.
Also, keep the jigsaw firmly connected with the plexiglass surface. Too light of a pressure will make it vibrate to the point where you're barely cutting at all. Inversely, too much pressure will certainly crack it.
Keep in mind that the post length depends upon the size of the jars you're using. Adapt these plans to suit your needs.
Make two posts for each generator. Phil is making six. Each piece will connect by sliding into the others' inseam. So, be sure that each inseam is wide enough and free of melted chunks.
Gently use a chisel and rubber mallet to take off any extra bits.
Now carefully drill a 1/4" hole in all four corners of each piece. This is where your wire will pass through and secure itself.
Once again, prepare to glue by cleaning off the plexiglass. Peel off any burs and extra melted plastic. Now you're ready to glue your generator together.
Step 5: Glue It Together
We chose to reinforce the holes, where the "valves" will pass through the lids, with flat washers. Phil "Gooped" them to the lids and then placed a bead of Goop around each valve to glue them into the holes.
After the valves are glued in, turn over the lid and glue around the underside of each valve. This will help insure that you have an air-tight seal. It will also reinforce the bond. Try to avoid getting glue inside the valves or on the threads where hose will be attached. Any extra Goop can be cut off later with a utility knife.
A spare piece of cardboard and some wire will help you manipulate the glue and avoid a sticky mess.
Loosely set the lids on top of the jars to cure. I put some weight on top of the valves to make sure they form a tight bond. Some Goop may drip to the bottom of your jars. It may be a good idea to place a piece of newspaper inside them.
After the valves are glued in, turn over the lid and glue around the underside of each valve. This will help insure that you have an air-tight seal. It will also reinforce the bond. Try to avoid getting glue inside the valves or on the threads where hose will be attached. Any extra Goop can be cut off later with a utility knife.
A spare piece of cardboard and some wire will help you manipulate the glue and avoid a sticky mess.
Loosely set the lids on top of the jars to cure. I put some weight on top of the valves to make sure they form a tight bond. Some Goop may drip to the bottom of your jars. It may be a good idea to place a piece of newspaper inside them.
Now you can prepare the plexiglass posts. Get plenty of Goop in the inseams of two pieces and connect them. Then run a thick bead of Goop down each joint. Place the post in a standing position and let it dry for a bit. This will give you a flat side to glue to the lid even if your posts didn't come out very evenly. Phil's were all unique, but they'll still work wonderfully.
The Goop will be partially cured in 2-10 minutes. Once the valves seem set, it's time to glue the finished posts to the lids. Wipe off any extra goop that may have dripped down to the flat side of each post set. Then apply a new thick bead of Goop along the "X" on the flat side of each. Finally attach them to the lids and place them upside-down on top of the jars to finish curing.
Let them sit for at least 24 hours. It's important that the bonds are fully cured and strong before you start attaching wires and hoses.
Because of the gluing, this project takes at least two days to complete. The next step will be to prepare the wiring and jar holster in your vehicle. Once the glue dries, we'll complete the assembly of each hydrogen generator and install them in Phil's Samurai.
